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The once-sleepy area of Lake Bacalar is not so unknown to travelers anymore and the Europeans that once came to Playa del Carmen and Tulum before they got so built-up seem to be gravitating here. If the hyped Maya Train project actually goes everywhere that’s been announced, that’ll bring more tourists down here to the bottom of Quintana Roo state in Mexico. All the more reason to visit sooner rather than later and spend some quality time kicking back in the nice setting at Hotel Makaaba.
This eco-resort in Bacalar town is a wonderful place to relax and enjoy your vacation in the “magic town” of Bacalar, just a few steps from the lagoon on the other side of the street. The gorgeous lake is the color of the Caribbean sea and is a great place to explore by sailboat or kayak.
There’s no shortage of places to sprawl here and unwind, with a huge swimming pool, multiple sitting areas, a bar lounge, and nets built into the upper balcony. The well-designed spaces flow together in a coherent whole and you’ve got something interesting to look at no matter which way you’re facing.
The centerpiece is the huge swimming pool. The area by the day beds is shallow, while at the far end is a very deep section inspired by Yucatan cenotes and a waterfall next to it. There’s a platform above where you can jump off from, with a ladder that will lead you back up if you want to do it again. There’s a sitting area right by the platform, a full outdoor living room one a few steps away, and built-in nets over the pool across from the rooms.
On the ground floor is the restaurant, bar, lawn, and gardens. Some of the best music playlists I’ve enjoyed in Mexico come through an epic stereo system with quality Bose outdoor speakers.
There’s a massage palapa in the garden area that also doubles as a morning yoga space when there’s an instructor lined up.
Eco-Friendly Touches at Hotel Makaaba
The full name of this property is Hotel Makaaba Eco Boutique and they go far further than most in justifying the title. All rainwater that runs off the roof is collected and stored in a cistern. Several natural filtration systems using rocks and plants provide drinking water supplied to guests as well as the water in the swimming pool. The pool was originally chemical-free as well, but after Covid hit they relented (for now) to keep everyone safe.
The hotel also has an integrated wastewater treatment facility that aids in keeping the nearby lagoon clean without wasting runoff water. A variety of plants are on the grounds, including banana trees, papaya trees, tomatoes, chili peppers, corn, and herbs–nourished by composting kitchen waste. A few pecking chickens provide eggs. All supplied bath products throughout are in refilled containers and are biodegradable.
No single-use plastic is served at Makaaba and many of the beers and sodas are in returnable bottles. Other aspects in place include LED lighting and low-flow toilets. There were no solar panels installed when we visited, but there’s certainly room for them and they’re listed as “coming soon” on the website.
Dining and Drinking
The restaurant at Makaaba was consistently good during our stay. Breakfast is included in the rates and is a delicious way to start the day. Freshly baked banana bread or muffins join choices like omelets, chilaquiles, and fruit bowls, accompanied by excellent coffee or local juices.
The lunch and dinner menus are not extensive, but real care goes into what is served and none of it is routine. There’s a serious locavore slant to what’s on offer, most ingredients coming from nearby or in some cases, from a few steps away in the garden. The level of cuisine at dinner is higher than the prices would indicate: nothing topped $11 during my visit. The dining room is an inviting space too, the centerpiece being a long slab table accented by natural materials and paintings lining the walls.
The bar here is a delight, with 10 Mexican craft beers available during my visit–more than I’ve seen in any other hotel in this country. There’s also an excellent mezcal selection and a good range of other liquors as well. The cocktail menu is more interesting than what you find at many 5-star hotels and prices for most of them are the peso equivalent of $5 to $7. Filtered drinking water is always available gratis.
Makaaba Hotel Rooms
I’m not saving the best for last here: except for a suite or two, the rooms at Makaaba are not the reason to choose this hotel. The owners clearly don’t want you hanging out in your room except to sleep. If you’re a couple, you’ll keep bumping into each other in the tiny space on the first level, in a room that makes most Manhattan studio apartments look gigantic in comparison. When you have to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night, it’s a treacherous climb down the stairs (turn that phone flashlight on) from where the bed is in the loft level.
The rooms do look cool at least and they certainly make the most of the existing space. There’s a fold-down table, a padded bench, and stairs that look like stacked blocks going up to the sleeping loft. You’re just going to be much more comfortable doing most of what you would normally do in a hotel room somewhere else on the property. Go outside and lie on a couch or a suspended net if you want to take a nap. Head to the bar or dining room if you need to get some work done.
They do have hot showers with good water pressure, supplied toiletries, air conditioning, and a comfortable mattress, so the basics are covered and when you look at the rates here, a stay at Makaaba is a great value. Just think of the place as an upscale version of a tropical backpacker lodge where you’re going to spend most of the time outside your room.
Staffers at Makaabá are friendly, helpful, and English-speaking. Rates at Hotel Makaaba usually run between $87 and $150, the latter for a larger suite. In a trend that’s opposite from the rest of Quintano Roo, rates actually go higher in the summer, with the smallest rooms going for $120 and up. These rates include taxes, breakfast, internet, and parking. Book direct at the resort at this link (Spanish only) or check online in English at Expedia.
Review, photos, and video by editor Tim Leffel, who was a guest at the property for purposes of review. As always, all opinions are his own.
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